1) clamp tin to workbench to keep it from moving around while sanding.
2) if your piece does not have any dents or
dings, skip this part. unless there is
serious damage this process will work. put the bigger piece of floor
tile on the
underside of the dent, ding, crease or whatever. put the narrow piece on the dent,
hit with hammer until flat. this may take some effortb to get the hang of it.
I have been doing this for
forty years so it comes easy to me. As long as the two
pieces of tile are sandwiching the tin, the tin will not
over stretch. Repeat on
all damage until mthe tin is reasonably flat.
3) No dings or dents, skip this part also.
Use the ocillating sander to remove most
of the graphics, most importantly on the areas that were dented.
flatten out the retainer slots so they don't interfere with the sanding. Mix
a tablespoon of bondo, make it pink as in the picture. too light and it
will not cure, too dark will make
it cure too fast. Just right and you will have
about 3 - 4 minutes to work it before it starts to cure. Use
the small spreader
and smooth out the bondo, you want it to be very thin, just a bit more than
neeeded to level out the tin.As soon as it starts to cure, stop. Give it a
couple of minutes until it is
hard and the surface is just a little tacky.
If you need more, repeat.When it looks like pic 4 take the stanley
level out the bondo, again, this has a learning curve, if you remove too much,
can add more bondo. You can bypass this if you want and go straight to
sanding. Use the sanding block with
36 g or 40 g to level the bondo out most
of the way. then use 80 g or 100 g to go a bit further. Now you
able to see any low spots, make a mental note of where they are. Mask off
that are not getting redone, usually the middle building. Get the
primer filler and shake it really well.
Spray several heavy coats then let
it dry for at least 30 min. Get a tube of spot putty from most any
and with the small spreader, lay a coat of it on top of the primer. Should
like pic 10. Let dry for at least 30 min. Sand with 220 or 320 wet dry
sandpaper on the sanding block with
liberal amount of water. On small areas
like these, I use windex instead of water because as I sand
I can wipe the
sanded area with a paper towel and see how it is coming along. Sand until
the surface is level and scratches are filled. Prime it and do it again if
needed, which it almost always
is. Repeat this whole process at the other
end as neccessary.
4) Sand with 600 grit wet/dry
wet until surface is smooth and scratch free,
this needs to be done on areas that didn't have dents or dings
the slot retainers by pushing them into their original positions ( see pic 15,
I made a tool for this by grinding a small wood chisel to the shape and size of
the slots) and or cleaning
any spot putty or bondo from the slots. mask it again
on both sides. Spray a lite mist coat of primer to
cover any bare metal and make
an even coat. let dry overnight.
5) if everything went as planned
it should be ready for paint which is the
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